Simplified Coin Photography - Part One

This update on my coin photo pages is not to show how to take the best photos but to show it is possible to simplify the equipment and still get decent photos. The images on this page are not the same as my best using my macro lens and fully adjustable camera stand. They were taken with a discontinued Canon Digital Single Lens Reflex (a 30D but all the models currently on sale will out preform it) and the cheapest 'kit' lens that Canon provides with any of its cameras (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 EF-S). No close up accessories were used. A better lens, close focusing accessories or a higher end camera might improve results slightly but the idea here is to establish a base line for image quality. If your photos are not this good, don't blame the equipment. Lighting was provided in two different ways. First, most images were taken using the natural daylight coming in the window (not direct sun but just what was bouncing around the room). A few (noted below) were made with the clip-on gooseneck lamp shown in the photo containing a daylight balance lightbulb ( this is an eBay LED from China for about $5). This page is not a text on lighting images but merely to show what you can do with little or no equipment other than the basic camera and lens usually provided as part of a beginner level kit.

The most important offering made by this page is the camera stand. ANY way of supporting the camera is better than nothing but if what you are using is not ROCK SOLID you are going to suffer image deterioration from camera motion. My stand here consists of three scrap lumber boards 15 inches long (these are left overs from a hardwood floor job but you could used 1"x2" pine or whatever you have available). These three are screwed together on top of a piece of 1"x8" lumber (also scrap) to provide a flat working surface. Before you cut your lumber to my 15" specification you might want to take some measurements and be sure your camera and desires would not be better served by another number. My Canon works well as shown here but your Nikon or other camera might prefer an inch or two difference one way or another. My preference for shadow free backgrounds led me to making my uprights longer and placing the coin on a plastic spindle from the bottom of a case that once contained fifty blank CDRs. You may be just as happy with coins placed directly on the bottom board. The camera is attached to the cross board by a 1/4" 20 thread bolt passed through a hole drilled in the middle of the board for the purpose. Big spenders may want to splurge and buy a thumb screw rather than using a standard head bolt which will require using a screwdriver. The length of the bolt will depend on the thickness of the board used for the cross support. Mine is 2" but too long is always easier to use than too short. You will also need a 1/4" nut or wingnut and a washer to place on the side of the board opposite the camera to provide a snug fit.

Since my 'kit' lens only focuses to .28m (.9 ft) small coins will not fill the frame at the closest setting. The high resolution sensors provided in most of today's cameras allow quite a bit of leeway for cropping. This Slavei fake denarius is shown uncropped (but image reduced to fit here). Below is the result achieved by combining it with the reverse and cropping away excess background. At the right is an unreduced small section of the reverse image as shot. Certainly quality would be better if the coin were shot using all the available frame but the practical differences here will not be seen until the image is blown up larger than most users will ever consider. If your photos are made for online use or prints of 4"x6" size, cropping the files will not be a problem. If you decide that you want a 20"x30" wall hanging, you may want to get accessories that will give larger files. This image was lighted using the LED gooseneck as shown above.

Below is a very simple sketch of the stand shown above. While anyone could copy it exactly, I strongly recommend that you check to be sure that the 15" uprights will allow your camera to focus on the coins you wish to photograph. It is always possible to make up extra space by using a pile of books or other spacers under the CD spindle. Be sure your equipment will work with the 15" uprights before cutting.

Following are some sample images shot with the above rig. The first used the LED light. The others were taken with daylight through the window shown in the first image with the LED turned off.

Gordian III, AE35, Tarsus, Cilicia

Alexander III (posthumous), Fourree Tetradrachm, Arados

Corinth, AR Stater

Nero, AE Dupondius, Rome

My other coin photo pages discuss some other points of lighting and achieving closer focus but the single most important thing is using a solidly mounted camera both to eliminate vibration and allow accurate focus. While I do believe in the advantages of Digital SLR cameras over Point and Shoots due to the larger sensor size available on these cameras, a solidly mounted consumer grade Point and Shoot can make reasonable images. My example here shows the same stand holding a Canon A1100 IS (a low end Point and Shoot). Since the camera must be much closer to focus on coins, I substitued a 100 CD spindle sitting on a thick book to hold the coin. The sample is another fake - a half dollar size Akragas Dekadrachm. It is shown here to make the point that many cameras can be pressed ito service for coin photography.

While the above rack for a DSLR can be pressed into service with the small camera, it makes much more sense to design the stand to fit the camera. My first digital camera, a Nikon 990, has an off centered tripod thread so the stand needs to be made accordingly. This one was made with a very short upright so the coin is usually placed directly on the base or on a very short dowel which will barely throw the background out of focus and requires more care in postprocessing to separate the coin from the background. Since the camera is only 3 megapixels, it is more important to fill the frame with smaller coins. I suggest not placing too much effort into fine carpentry when building your first stand. It is very likely that you will discover a design change that you will want to employ in the next model. The example is another Slavei fake. While this small camera and small stand are not capable of modern Digital SLR quality, the compact size of this unit makes it a very good item for use away from home. Light was provided by the window.

Part Two of this discussion is here.