Moving on to lighting guestions.

[Brian L]

Hello all,
I am still trying to improve my coin shots and while I think I have the base settings worked out (ISO 80, Speed,0.3, F8, @30 cm from the coin),
mt next problem to tackle is lighting.
I have a 40w Reval bulb at @ 1:00 and opposite a tinfoil reflector, you can see I am getting to much light on top while the tinfoil improves the lower half.
I have tried several materials for a light filter,bubble wrap,sheet of paper,zip lock bags, etc, but when I get the brightness out the bottom becomes to dark.
I plan on getting a second light set up but I still need a light diffuser.
When I look at the Forvm Gallery, I seldom,if ever see a coin with the shiny lighting.
I would appreciate suggestions as to what others use to diffuse the glare.
Thanks,
Brian

[Andrew McCabe]

Hello all,
I am still trying to improve my coin shots and while I think I have the base settings worked out (ISO 80, Speed,0.3, F8, @30 cm from the coin),
mt next problem to tackle is lighting.
I have a 40w Reval bulb at @ 1:00 and opposite a tinfoil reflector, you can see I am getting to much light on top while the tinfoil improves the lower half.
I have tried several materials for a light filter,bubble wrap,sheet of paper,zip lock bags, etc, but when I get the brightness out the bottom becomes to dark.
I plan on getting a second light set up but I still need a light diffuser.
When I look at the Forvm Gallery, I seldom,if ever see a coin with the shiny lighting.
I would appreciate suggestions as to what others use to diffuse the glare.
Thanks,
Brian

Cloudy early morning daylight works quite well for me, or at least better than any artificial light I've tried.

[dougsmit]

Coins that have bright surfaces and high relief tend to look better in soft, non directional light.   Andrew's cloudy daylight is one way.  I had some luck bouncing light off white surfaces basically lighting the whole room (or closet, in my case, since that is where my camera sits).  


The advantage of artificial light is that it is easier to duplicate without regard to time and weather.  

I'm usually not a fan of reflectors directed on the coin surface but often have a small one to light the bottom edge separating it from the background.

[daverino]

I try to use natural lighting to get various effects which enhance the particular coin. I have a simple hand-held digital camera. Recently I got a silvered Postumus with a crack and corroded areas on the reverse. Otherwise the coin is VF+.

  1)My first shot is with the coin angled so that the sun shines direcly off the coin into the lens. It gives a dramatic effect and emphasizes the graphic detail of the portrait. It also washes out any discolored area.


  2)In the second set light falls across the coin which is angled away from the sun light. This enhances the relief on the coin and minimizes the obverse crack.

  3)The last shot was done on a cloudy day. Diffuse light clearly shows the surface texture including the defects. The colors are closer to "true" but the discoloration on the reverse is much more evident in the photo than in hand.

I am somewhat undecided between (1) and (3) in this coin but think any approach might be useful for a particular coin.

[Randygeki(h2)]

Here's my crappy spin on that  set up, but many of my photos aren't the best and I have to rephotograph allot. I like to use a daylight compact bulb. I like early morning light too (but I rarely see mornings XD ); that's what I used on the green one of A. Pius. I have a real problem with shiny sliver and glossy patina.

[cmcdon0923]

I am somewhat undecided between (1) and (3) in this coin but think any approach might be useful for a particular coin

In any photographic endeavor with coins, the primary objective should always be to produce an image that most realistically represents the item being photographed.....warts and all.  Lighting or post processing that either accentuates the flaws or attempts to hide them does nothing to increase the value or usefullness of the image.   (...just my humble opinion)

[Andrew McCabe]

I am somewhat undecided between (1) and (3) in this coin but think any approach might be useful for a particular coin

In any photographic endeavor with coins, the primary objective should always be to produce an image that most realistically represents the item being photographed.....warts and all.  Lighting or post processing that either accentuates the flaws or attempts to hide them does nothing to increase the value or usefullness of the image.   (...just my humble opinion)

"Realistically represents the item being photographed" differs depends on whether the object in hand is looked at in an artificially lit room, under early morning clouds, bright daylight or darkness. Which is the most realistic? All of them are and just as one chooses the light conditions which are most favourable to the coins appearance when looking at the item in hand, and that's fair, one also chooses the lighting which is most  favourable to the coins appearance when being photographed. So all of daverino's photos are realistic and one chooses the most pleasant to look at.

In the end, all lighting choices are natural, in that we live in such light at night time and we think things look natural when artificially lit.

So just choose the one which looks best for the coin photo. It's natural.

[Randygeki(h2)]

Heres another Doug inspired photo, all with the same light.

[daverino]

I am somewhat undecided between (1) and (3) in this coin but think any approach might be useful for a particular coin

In any photographic endeavor with coins, the primary objective should always be to produce an image that most realistically represents the item being photographed.....warts and all.  Lighting or post processing that either accentuates the flaws or attempts to hide them does nothing to increase the value or usefullness of the image.   (...just my humble opinion)

I don't disagree that you shouldn't "doctor" an image. The various types of image that different lightings accentuate can be duplicated by simply turning the coin at different angles in your hand. Do you like one best for a particular coin? Then use it in your gallery.

If you are a professional coin seller things are different. Customers (if you want to keep them) will expect a uniform photographic treatment so they don't have to guess how they should interpret a photo. Either way, I wouldn't say one image is more accurate or truer than the other.

Regards, Dave