Hello: Yes, I wax bronze coins with Ren
wax- three very thin coats. I like the look and agree it helps bring out detail sometimes. I also like the idea of protecting the coin during handling and from moisture.
To the point about not locking in moisture, in the past I have heated coins to above 212 for a short period to drive out any water, then waxed immediately after they cooled down. However, from my experience with Civil War brass artifacts I learned about solvent dehydration. Water is completely miscible in many alcohols--methanol, ethanol and isopropanol etc. I use 91% isopropanol you can buy in a pharmacy (or can when this virus thing is over). If you soak a group of coins in alcohol any water in the coins will become completely dissolved in the alcohol, meaning there will be very little water in the coins when removed from the alcohol bath after a few days. Alcohol evaporates quickly and with a little help
from a blow dryer or space heater you can drive out that alcohol quickly, then wax. By avoiding the oven I eliminate the risk of changing the appearance--sometimes darkening-- of the coins.
I can attest that Ren
wax is easily removable-- I have removed it from two groups of coins to clean them a little more. A short soak in mineral spirits, wet brushing with a tooth brush, and then a rinse in clean mineral spirits does the trick. My point is, Ren
wax is not permanent; its completely undoable.
Also, I use Briwax on restored
iron and brass Civil War artifacts. It's a high quality
wax and much less expensive than Ren
wax. I've never used it on coins though, and because the coins are so small the cost of Ren
wax is not that much of an issue. On a large number of large Civil War artifacts Ren
wax would get very expensive. The Briwax does a good
job. See attached photos of Union breast plate and Confederate 6 pound cannon ball.