Everybody does different things to clean their coins, even if we all follow the same basic steps. Scott's "how to" was a godsend a couple of years ago when I started this (I don't think I ever said thatnks for that, so: Thanks!!!). The thing is to take what you are comfortable with and go with it.
For example: on a regular lot of dirty to crusty eastern european uncleaneds I start off by:
1. Check for silver/silvered and pull them. (cleaned and soaked seperatly)
2. Boil the remainder (usually all of them
) in a 2
cup DW to 1.5 tablespoon washing soda mix for 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Let cool and soak in the boil water for an hour to a day (depending on my schedule)
4. Transfer to a soak tub with clean DW. (which I change at least once a week, usually twice a week)
5. For the first couple of days, I just brush with a nylon brush until all of the loose and brushable dirt is gone. (if the dirt is tough and the
patina is not showing, I will somtimes use a soft bristeled
brass brush (SBBB) to knock the dirt a
bit looser)
6. Once all of the loose/brushable dirt is off I start with mechanical cleaning. Using either my exacto or
dental pick on a dry coin I
pick a small
area, and in small circular motions, start cleaning. I usually never spend more than 5 minutes
per coin, because I have found that the longer I
work them the more aggressive I get and usually will end up popping through the
patina. Once I am done with a session, the coin goes back in the dw. Repeat until you are satified with the look of the coin or you can get no more of the crud off. This step can last for a few days to a few months. If your coin looks
good, stop here...if your coin
still is all crusty, move on to step 7.
7. Step 7 is where a lot of people diverge. You have been cleaning this coin for a while now and the crust is not moving. You might have lumps, or bumps and stuff on it may feel like cement or worse
still...the black shiny slick stuff...what to do? Some people go the chemical route (heavier versions of GG's, ect). Some go the traditional electric electrolosis route. Neither are a bad thing, it's your coin, do what you will, but for me both should be the last resort. The
patina is not only a pretty addition to your coin, but will protect it far better than renwax in the long run! But
still, somtimes harsh methods are needed. I personally go the "non-electical" electrolosis route. It's easy, just as effective (it does take longer though, but remember, this is not a race!!), and I have yet to turn a coin colors or induce
pitting using this method. All you have to do is take a palstic tub, fill it with 2 cups of hot DW and mix in a tablespoon or two of washing soda. Take a smallish piece of foil and, after dipping your coin in the soda solution, wrap it around your coin. I just usually make a small pouch and seal three sides leaving the fourth unbent but pinched together. After your coin is wrapped, drop the pouch into the hot dw solution and wait for 24 hours. The next day you should notice the foil starting to get eaten away and with this sign, pull the pouch out of the water and with your sbbb in your handy dremel, lightly, and under running water (note: don't turn the water on full blast as the dremel with spray all over you!!) lightly dremel the crusties off. Some coins one treatment is all that is needed, others, get what
comes off off and repeat the process another 24hrs and keep repeating until you are satisfied. At this point the coin will be shiny and crust free. Re-patinate, wax and
flip.
The key is to find out what works with the coins you are cleaning and stick with it...until the next batch, when you will ahve to figure them out...and so on. Don't get bogged down with a single method, try a bunch and take what you want from them and make them your own.
I am rambling now...hope this helps a
bit.
Chris
PS Read anything that Salem or Kevin (Mayadigger) (or for that matter, Johnny, Dino (CGPCGP), Joe (Gavignano) )or any of the active cleaners post on cleaning, those guys are a treasure trove of
good info!
C.
