Keeping a coin cabinet organized

[David Fischer]

I recently purchased a mahogany coin cabinet from Peter Nichols, and I am very happy with it in terms of the quality and the way my coins look in it. However, one thing which I didn't really consider is how to keep the coins inside the cabinet organized. I have a spreadsheet where I keep pictures of all of my coins with the corresponding information, and right now my collection is small enough that I know all of my coins by looking at them so I can just find their picture in the spreadsheet, but that won't always be the case. I thought about creating an additional picture in the spreadsheet which highlights the slot of the cabinet tray the coin is in, but that only works if you never accidentally misplace it when returning it to the cabinet.

I'm just curious if anyone else uses mahogany cabinets as their primary storage method, and if so how do you keep the coins linked to the information associated with them?

[Carausius]

I use Abafil trays, and the approach is the same.  Each coin in my collection is assigned a number when entered into my database.  I include that number on my tray tickets.  Simple as that!

I also try to plan for the possibility that my database may be unavailable to the persons disposing of my collection. Most important to me is making sure that provenance information is never lost.  So my tray tickets always include full provenance information on the back, and very basic identifying info (including my database number) on front.  It's a good idea to print your database info from time to time and put in a binder.

Provenance info is the most important info to preserve, in my opinion.  Any decent numismatist can attribute your coins, but few will be able to resurrect a lost provenance.

[SC]

I do two things.

First I bought a 1" circular punch from a craft store and punch out small round paper tags to place under each coin in my cabinets.  I can record basic info on the tag.

For more detailed information and provenance tags, I use the old binders with flip pocket pages that I used to store my collection in.  They make up a "shadow cabinet" (sorry couldn't resist the political joke) where one or two pages model each cabinet drawer. 

SC

[PMah]

I use a hybrid system, similar to both Shawn's and Michael.'s systems., as I am tight on space.  I print both a large 1" circular tag with my collection number, and a smaller 1/2".  Small one goes with coin in either a tray or 2x2 flip.  Larger tag goes with provenance tags, envelopes, etc, in storage boxes.  The small ones also travel with the coin if I go to show 'n' tell at coin club. 
    A few years ago, I found an artist who does wedding invite caligraphy to write 1000 numbers  for me, which I punch as needed.  But I exceeded that number a while ago and my low numbers aren't my best, so my 1 to 300 are mostly untouched!  Now I just use inkjet on acid-free paper.

[Carausius]

Actually, Paul, that's exactly what I do.  My small, abbreviated tags with collection number (corresponding to database) and full provenance description go in the trays at the bank.  At home, I keep a box with 2x2 flips containing bigger tags with collection number, full attribution, provenance info and any old tags. When I sell a coin, it goes in its corresponding 2x2 flip with the more detailed tag and the historical material.

[David Fischer]

Thank you for the replies gentleman. Sometimes the answer is so simple but eludes you. I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how I was going to fit the equivalent of a 2x2 square I would normally keep in a flip into a 20mm circle, and then when I finally thought about using round paper tickets with a number I spent an hour searching online for discs of paper like an idiot when the answer is obviously a punch!

I really like the idea of having someone with better handwriting doing a set of numbers on acid free paper, I also have a friend who does calligraphy for a living and I will probably have him make me a set.

[cmcdon0923]

Don't forget to also use a pen with archival quality ink.  They are easily found at most craft stores.


Craig

[Carausius]

Here's an example of my tray tags.  They are 1 inch × 2 inches and folded in half to 1x1.  I print on both sides in small font (8 or 9 point).  Front is abbreviated attribution.  Back is full provenanance (abbreviated in this case because lengthy!).  Bold number is my collection number.  At 1x1, these fit in the 9x6 opening Abafil trays.  This system works well for me.